Whittier is an unusual Alaska town accessible only by road-rail tunnel — the primary Prince William Sound access for kayaking, glacier tours, and whale watching, budget $80-200/day, best May through September.
Whittier is reached through a single shared road-rail tunnel — 250 people, mostly in one building, surrounded by glaciers and Prince William Sound.
Whittier is the strangest town in Alaska, which is saying something in a state where strangeness is practically a civic virtue. To reach it, you drive through a mountain. Literally. The Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, bored through the base of Maynard Mountain, stretches two and a half miles and operates on a scheduled alternating one-way traffic pattern, meaning you must arrive at the portal at designated times and wait your turn to enter. Cars and trains share the same tunnel. When you emerge on the other side, blinking into the grey light of Prince William Sound, you find a community where nearly all two hundred year-round residents live in a single fourteen-story concrete building called Begich Towers, a former Cold War military barracks that contains apartments, a post office, a laundromat, a convenience store, and a medical clinic.
None of this prepares you for the view. Whittier sits in a narrow fjord ringed by mountains that rise straight from the waterline, their upper slopes buried under glaciers and snowfields. Waterfalls cascade down sheer rock faces into water so calm it reflects the clouds like polished slate. The harbor is filled with fishing boats, tour vessels, and kayaks, all poised at the doorstep of Prince William Sound, one of the most spectacular and least visited marine wilderness areas in North America.
Prince William Sound encompasses roughly fifteen thousand square miles of protected waterways, containing twenty-six named glaciers, countless islands, and a marine ecosystem so rich that humpback whales, orcas, sea otters, harbor seals, Steller sea lions, and puffins are not occasional visitors but daily residents. Whittier is the most accessible gateway to this extraordinary wilderness, and for many travelers, the little tunnel town serves as the launchpad for the best day they will spend in Alaska.
The town itself takes perhaps fifteen minutes to walk from end to end. There is a small boat harbor, a few restaurants, a couple of tour operator offices, and the looming presence of Begich Towers, which manages to be simultaneously depressing and fascinating. The building was constructed in 1953 as the Hodge Building for military families stationed at the adjacent base, and it was the largest building in Alaska at the time. After the military left, the remaining civilians consolidated into this single structure for practical reasons: Whittier receives roughly two hundred inches of precipitation annually, and in winter, avalanches regularly close the road and bury the town in snow. Living in one fortified concrete building starts to seem less eccentric and more sensible when you consider the environment.
What Makes Whittier Special
Whittier exists because of geography. Its deep-water port, protected from open-ocean storms by the surrounding mountains, made it strategically valuable during World War II, when the military constructed a secret base here to supply interior Alaska via railroad through the mountains. That military infrastructure, including the tunnel, the railroad, and the massive concrete buildings, is what allows a civilian community to exist in a location that would otherwise be utterly impractical for human settlement.
But that same geography is what makes Whittier extraordinary for visitors. The fjords radiating outward from Whittier into Prince William Sound are among the most dramatic marine landscapes in the world. Blackstone Bay, accessible by a two-hour boat ride, contains two tidewater glaciers that actively calve icebergs into water where sea otters float on their backs cracking shellfish. Surprise Glacier, deeper in the sound, is a massive wall of blue ice that groans and cracks with the slow percussion of a living thing. These are not distant views. Tour boats approach within a quarter mile of the glacier faces, close enough to feel the cold air rolling off the ice and hear the rifle-crack of calving events before the ice hits the water.
The kayaking here is considered some of the best in Alaska. Sheltered waters, abundant wildlife, and glacier-fed bays create conditions that are challenging enough to be thrilling but protected enough for guided beginners. Multi-day kayaking trips into the western sound, camping on remote beaches with glaciers as your backdrop, rank among the most memorable wilderness experiences available in the state.
What Are the Top Things to Do in Whittier?
Prince William Sound Glacier Cruise is the signature Whittier experience. Major Marine Tours and Phillips Cruises and Tours operate daily departures from late May through mid-September. The most popular route visits twenty-six glaciers in a single day, cruising through College Fjord and Harriman Fjord. Full-day cruises (five to six hours) run $150 to $200 per person. Half-day Blackstone Bay glacier cruises run $130 to $170 and focus on tidewater glaciers and wildlife in a more intimate setting.
Sea Kayaking in Prince William Sound ranges from half-day guided paddles near Whittier ($85 to $125 per person) to multi-day expeditions camping among glaciers and islands ($500 to $1,200 for two to five day trips). Lazy Otter Charters and Prince William Sound Kayak Center are reputable outfitters. No experience is necessary for guided day trips; outfitters provide all equipment and instruction.
Hike the Portage Pass Trail, a moderate 4.5-mile round trip that climbs from the Whittier side of the tunnel road to a stunning overlook of Portage Glacier and Portage Lake. The trail is well-maintained with a mix of forest and alpine terrain, gaining about 750 feet of elevation. On clear days, the view from the pass is one of the great sights in Southcentral Alaska. Free, no permit required.
Fishing Charters in Prince William Sound target halibut, silver salmon, pink salmon, and rockfish. Full-day charters run $300 to $400 per person, with gear provided. The protected waters of the sound make for relatively comfortable boat fishing even on days when the open ocean would be too rough.
Alaska Marine Highway Ferry departs from Whittier to Valdez, Cordova, and other Prince William Sound communities. The Whittier-to-Valdez sailing is a seven-hour scenic journey through the heart of the sound, passing glaciers, islands, and abundant wildlife. Walk-on fares are around $100 one way; vehicles cost more depending on size.
Explore the Whittier waterfront and the small boat harbor, where you can watch commercial fishing boats unload their catch, spot sea otters playing in the harbor, and visit the Prince William Sound Museum in the Anchor Inn for a small admission fee.
Where Should I Stay in Whittier?
Budget: Whittier Campground near the harbor offers basic tent sites for about $20 per night in a gravel lot that is functional if not scenic. Alternatively, many visitors stay in Anchorage and make Whittier a day trip, since the drive is only ninety minutes including the tunnel. Backpackers can keep costs down by bringing a packed lunch and taking a half-day tour.
Mid-Range: Inn at Whittier is the town’s primary hotel, offering comfortable waterfront rooms with views over the harbor and Prince William Sound. Rooms run $189 to $289 per night during summer. The hotel has a restaurant and is within walking distance of all tour operators. June’s Whittier Condo Suites in Begich Towers offers an authentic local experience: you stay in the very building where nearly the entire town lives. Rates start around $150 for a basic unit.
Luxury: Whittier has limited luxury options, but several fishing and wilderness lodges accessible by boat from Whittier offer premium experiences. Orca Island Cabins, a yurt-based eco-lodge on a private island in Prince William Sound, offers all-inclusive packages starting at $550 per night per person including water taxi, kayaks, and meals. It is one of the most unique accommodations in Alaska.
What Should I Eat in Whittier?
Lazy Otter Cafe is the best restaurant in Whittier and a town gathering spot. Located on the harbor, it serves excellent chowder, fish and chips, halibut burgers, and daily specials using fresh local seafood. The outdoor deck overlooking the harbor is the place to be on a sunny day. Entrees $14 to $28.
Swiftwater Seafood Cafe in the harbor area serves freshly caught fish and chips, crab legs, shrimp baskets, and chowder at picnic tables with water views. Simple, fresh, and satisfying. Entrees $15 to $35.
Wild Catch Cafe offers coffee, pastries, and light meals that are perfect before or after a tour. The smoked salmon quesadilla is a local favorite. Items $8 to $18.
China Sea in Begich Towers provides Chinese-American fare to the town’s residents and visitors alike. Eating here offers the unique experience of dining inside the building where the entire community lives. Combination plates $14 to $22.
Inn at Whittier Restaurant serves the most upscale meals in town, with fresh seafood, steaks, and pasta in a dining room overlooking the sound. Entrees $22 to $45. Breakfast is also available for hotel guests and walk-ins.